We have a long Easter weekend, and with time to kill and the roads happily empty of traffic, as everyone has deserted the smoke for the beach, we took off to Tula, north of Mexico City. We are, after all, only 2.4 hours from Tula. And only that long because we like to stop for coffees. Tula is a small town, notable only for the ancient ruins of the Toltecs, an ancient group of Mexicans whose history appears muddies at best.

The town is a pleasant enough place. Very quiet, colourful, with an interesting church and monastery, complete with surviving murals. The food was ok too – being in Hidalgo, barbacoa and carnitas were on the menu. I decided to brave a dish of sheeps head. Not bad. Better than you’d expect for that part of an animals anatomy.

Then on to the ruins. Which, I must confess, are the most disappointing set of ruins I’ve so far seen in Mexico. There’s clearly plenty of trade, but the entire place just has a run down, unkempt feel to it. The repairs that have been made don’t seem appropriate and the vistas are all rather industrial. A smoggy sky didn’t help. The statues looked magnificent though. And we were fortunate enough to find a band of costumed warriors and warrioresses doing their thing and posing for photos.

Incidentally, I usually come away from most places feeling my photos didn’t do them justice. The opposite is true here. Worth a visit? If you’re a ruin nut, then yes. Otherwise, there are plenty of other ruins which’ll give you a better day out. For the aforementioned photos, all assembled on Flickr, click here for the town, and click here for the ruins.


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