Noche Triste

Every metro station has not only a name but a symbol. And they are often worth investigating. Some are a little obvious. Villa de Cortes springs to mind. Others less so. Would Garibaldi turn out to have a large poster of myself with a digitally shaved bonce? Turned out not to be. Shame, really. It took me a couple of years to work out what a chabacano was, and why it had a Metro station named after it. A chabacano, I discovered, was an apricot. Which still left me a little mystified as to why the metro station bore that name.

I’ve only just bothered to look it up, and now that I know the answer, I can share it with you. There used to be a river there, besides the bank of which apricot trees grew in large numbers. The explanation is so obvious once you know it. But you’d not have known there used to be a river there. You’ll struggle to find rivers in the Distrito Federal, despite lots of place names having the word ‘rio’ in them. They’ve mostly been diverted in large pipes underground. A pity? I’d have to see what the quality of the water is like before I call for any rivers to be brought back to the surface. I have concerns.

Today I got off at Metro Popotla. The name gives little away, to me anyway, but the symbol of a tree held hope of a historical find. Ok, I confess, I had gotten a tip off. The tree is an Ahuehuete tree, apparently, and famed for its association with Hernan Cortes, the conquistador supremo. Cortes, so the story goes*, had left Tenochtitlan, the Aztec forebear of Mexico City, where he was still a guest of sorts, to dash off to Veracruz. A party of Spaniards had landed there intent on finding and arresting him. He did battle, won the day and returned to the Aztec capital only to find that the buddies he’d left there had had a mad rush of blood to the head and had gone and slaughtered a bunch of Aztec nobles.

The Aztecs weren’t best pleased, and señor Cortes found himself holed up in the centre of the city, with Moctezuma as his prisoner. Surrounded by Mexica warriors, Cortes slipped out of the city under the cover of darkness, with all the gold he and his men could carry, and tried to make a dash for safety over a damaged bridge across the lake that surrounded Tenochtitlan. He was spotted and a chase and battle ensued. He just made it out with his life, but perhaps hundreds of his men, and maybe thousands of the non Aztec ‘Mexicans’ he’d picked up along the way to accompany him, died. The lake ran red with blood, and in places where the bridge was damaged, dead bodies filled the gaps, allowing others to walk across.

He stopped at a point where Popotla is now sited, and cried beside a tree for all the men he’d lost. And I’m sure there was a tear or two shed for the gold that had been lost with them. Instant karma, if there is such a thing. And so the tree was named Arbol de la Noche Triste – night of the sorrows. The tree stood for hundreds of years, before being destroyed in a fire a few years ago. But I wanted to have a looky see to see what remained. I found first a church, then behind it a garden. On a wall was painted a large mural depicting the events of that infamous night. Then past the church, in a small park, was a gated area where the tree once stood.

The stump is still there. And a huge stump it is too. A familiar looking stump, in fact. I’d seen such a tree before, I was sure of it. A little more research was needed on the Ahuehuete tree. As it happens, I was right to think I’d seen such a tree before. The Arbol del Tule, in Oaxaca, is such a tree and I’ve visited it twice. It has no links to Hernan Cortes, that I know of. But it does claim to be the worlds largest living biomass. I took a few photos. Of the tree, or what remains of it, and the mural. Click here to go see them on Flickr.

* So the story goes according to my memory, which isn’t always 100% reliable. If you really need to know the exact details, Google is your friend.


4 thoughts on “Noche Triste

  1. And here’s the rest of the sory…as Paul Harvey would say… This is a good bar bet… where was the first naval battle in
    Mexico ?
    Answer: Mexico City at 7,500 feet above sea level.
    The rest of the story:
    When Cortes got through bawling under the ahuehuete tree, he asked, Is Martin Lopez still alive?” ” Yes he is”, aswered his men. Now what was so damn important about Martin?
    Well Martin had the answer to Cortes’ SECRET WEAPON.
    Then we’re OK, lets march back to Tlaxcala.
    Tlaxcalans had been under siege by the Aztecs for more than 50 years and they were happy to see Hernan come back, even though they had lost a bunch of there native sons. After all he had a lot of magic shit with him like gunpowder, canons, swords and horses, besides he seemed friendly enough, specially with the women.
    But back to Martin, He was the ships carpenter and knew how to build a boat, Hernan had sank his ships so nobody could turn back if the going got rough. But Hernan gave him an order, start cutting down the trees in Atempan, (just at the City limits of Tlaxcala) and build me 13 brigantine ships that can hold 20 or so men with canon & blunderbusses.
    So for the next year they cut and sawed and hammered. then they damned up the Zahuapan river 2 blocks away with an earthen damn and tested the boats on them. they floated, so they dismantled them in several pieces and Cortes, the Spaniards & 20,000 Tlaxcalan warriors carried the boat parts on their backs (mostly the indians), crossed the mountains between popocatepetl & Iztaccihuatl, reached the shores of lake Texcoco, reassembled the ships and proceeded to bombard Tenchitlan (now Mexico City) with a siege that lasted 90 days, the Aztec leader , Cuahtemoc (Moctezuma had been killed the year before), had about a thousand canoes. It was like shooting sitting ducks, no match for grapeshot and swords,
    there were only 3 entrances to the island city of Tenochitlan and Cortes had them blocked.
    During the last few days of the siege Cuahtemoc was caught trying to escape in a canoe & taken prisoner. shortly thereafter the Spaniards stuck his feet in a fire to try and torture the location of where his gold was hidden but he never talked.
    Also one of Corteses Captains had a black slave with him who had smallpox, the Indians had zero immunity to it and as many that died from canon fire and the sword died from the plague or maybe more.
    Thus fell the mighty Aztec empire.
    Check my blog at:


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.