A wax model of Morelos, at the Wax Museum of Mexico City. They have an exhibition for the Bicentenario, and I posted all the photos on Flickr of the heroes and villains here.
Near Cuernavaca is a small town called Tepoztlan, home of some crazy dancers who don some pretty far out costumes before parading through the streets to the sound of a marching band. I took a video of a gang of them last year in Xochimilco. Anyway, I found a cool postcard featuring these guys. Want it? It can be yours….all you need to do is leave a comment claiming the card and then send me the address you want it posted to using my Contact page. Has it already been claimed? Perhaps there’s another card waiting to be claiming – check out the Postcard page.
Yesterday turned into something of a magical mystery revolutionary tour. We set off, a little late, for some pyramids. But after lunch, changed the itinerary and chased after the historical bits and pieces of General Emiliano Zapata that lie in the countryside and towns surrounding Cuernavaca. First stop, the remnants of the house he was born in, with it’s ‘closed for refurbishment museum’ and a rather grand mural along one lengthy wall.
Next stop, the hacienda he went to in order to meet with a defector to his side (a defector that never was) which is now also a museum, albeit a ramshackle affair that is quickly falling to pieces. The photographs, newspapers and pictures make it worth the stop though. But beware, if you should ever visit – the place has no lighting. It’s no good arriving after dark. We arrived at dusk, just early enough to see some detail, too late to read any fine print.
Final stop, just around the corner from the hacienda – the monument and plaza marking the spot where, in 1919, enemy forces ambushed and gunned down Zapata. There are a few faded pieces on the wall that must have once been a grand mural, and a statue of Zapata upon his mighty steed as it rears up, above the exact spot of his killing.
We recieved a sort of guided tour by an old chap, very much dressed up for the part, with his Zapata style sombrero, who regaled us with tales of his father and uncle who apparently participated in the war. He told a good story, although simple maths suggest that, whilst possible, his family account in a war that finished more than 90 years ago was perhaps a little embellished. The alcohol induced slur added to my suspicions. But still, he told a good story. And sold Paola a pirate copy of Viva Zapata starring Marlon Brando and Anthony Quinn for a frankly outrageous 50 pesos.
The Mexican Revolution ran from 1910 to 1920. A little longer if you include sporadic outbreaks of violence after that. Hundreds of thousands died. Perhaps a million. Perhaps two million. It’s hard to say, and there is no firm agreement. The bad guys were the ones with guns. No matter which side they were technically on. Revolutionary or governmental, forces would rape and plunder as they travelled. The lasting effects were profound though. The death penalty was abolished. And a new political party, the PRI was born. They would rule until 2000. I have something in mind to write about them soon. Until then, click here for some Zapatista photos I took.
A quick video of our weekend away in Morelos. Featuring water skiers who crash, and a father and son wussy tag team who climbed to the top diving platform and then stood there for a half hour, too scared to jump. Video quality as ever is noticeably better when you hit the HD button. Production quality as ever is iffy….I have much practicing to do. The music track is called Sonnet 116 by Maggie Doucet.