Most people visiting Siem Reap will buy themselves either a one day, a two day or a three day pass to Angkor Wat and the other associated temples/ruins. There’s a whole bunch of temples, but Angkor Wat is the one that the Buddhists took on from the Hindus, as such is the best preserved.
What most folk will then do is arrange a tour guide or taxi driver to get them to the famed viewing point for sunrise. It’s just the done thing. I had some reservations about this plan. I don’t much like getting up at 4.30am. I much prefer the sun being behind me when I take photographs. And I could picture the huge crowds of people gathering there waiting for the sun to rise, just because it’s the done thing.





I was right. Waking up at 4.30am just left me feeling tired all day. It wasn’t the photographic treat its’ made out to be. And I despise crowds. I should have stayed in bed, and enjoyed the views at sunset instead. But I didn’t, because seeing the sunrise at Angkor Wat is just the done thing.
Should you make it to Siem Reap, I recommend that you enjoy dawn from your bed, asleep. You won’t, of course. You’ll be up at silly o’clock too. Because it’s the done thing. And quite frankly, the tiredness, crowds and shitty lighting aren’t even the worst things about the experience.





Want to get that special photo? Line your lens up carefully so you don’t get the scattered tarpaulins, scaffolding, crappy fencing and litter in your shot. As for the famous ponds that provide the opportunity for epic reflections – bogs of eternal stench. Let’s just say, my first impression of Angkor Wat was a little bit underwhelming.
Don’t let any of this put you off. Angkor Wat wasn’t a New 7 Wonders finalist for nothing. Once you’ve elbowed your way past the hordes and gotten inside and started exploring, the scale, grandeur, history and beauty of the place is something to behold. Worth every penny, or Cambodian rial, of the entry fee.





A guide is worth the expense too. These temples tell a complex and lengthy story. Our Angkor guide, who has a sideline in fishing videos, was brilliant. As was our Cambodia taxi/guide who ferried us between the sites in his fabulous tuk tuk. I highly recommend him, should you need such a person. He’s not perfect though. He’ll insist that you get up at an unholy hour to go see sunrise.
We really needed more than one day. The site is so vast. And thoroughly overwhelming. But alas. One day is all we had. A day absolutely chock full of whelming.